HID Conversion Kit, HID Headlights, HID Replacement Bulbs FAQ

HID stands for High Intensity Discharge (lights). This is a commonly accepted upgrade for halogen/incandescent bulbs as they are much brighter; incandescent bulbs produce roughly 800-1000 lm (lumen) while a OEM HID system produces roughly 2900-3200 lm. A HID lamp produces light by creating an arc of electricity between two electrodes in a quartz glass tube. Between the two electrodes are metallic salts and gas that ignites when the arc is produced. The gas facilitates the electrical arc and once the metallic salts are evaporated, this creates “plasma” which is the light that is created. HID lamps are much more energy efficient compared to regular incandescent lamps, while they require a substantial amount of power during start-up to create the light, the amount of power required to sustain the light is considerably less compared to regular incandescent lamps. HID lamps are also much more durable with an average working life of 2000 hours.

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The average lifespan of a HID is 2000 working hours, which is about 4 times longer than regular halogen bulbs (500 working hours).

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Yes, the HID Conversion Kit has been designed to be simply plug and play.

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We carry a wide range of Kelvin temperatures for the color of our HID lights. We carry the following:

3000K Deep Yellow ( approx. 3200 lm)


6000K White/Slight hint of blue (Recommended, approx. 2900 lm)


8000K Blue/Slight hint of white (approx. 2500 lm)


10,000K Dark Blue/Slight hint of purple (approx. 2300 lm)


12,000K Purple/Slight hint of blue (approx. 2000 lm)

We highly recommend 6000K as the color of choice for all our customers as it provides the best output for the color it provides. As you go higher in the Kelvin temperature, the less output the lights produce. As long as you stay within the 6000K-8000K color range, the output will be x3 brighter than stock incandescent bulbs, but once you move up higher, the output drops down to roughly x2 as bright.
Although Kelvin is a measurement of physical temp

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• The bulb size is incorrect for the headlamp assembly. Double-check to see if it is correct or not.
• A special bulb holder is required. If this is case, you need to purchase the HID bulb retainer/holders.
• There is an alternate way to insert and secure the bulb. Exhaust all possibilities by trying to install the bulbs into the socket at different angles.
• The base of the bulb needs to be modified. Compare the base of the stock halogen bulb to the HID bulb; shape the HID bulb’s base to match that of the stock halogen bulb via grinding, sanding, etc.

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• The bulb and/or wiring are the wrong one for the vehicle. Double-check to see if it is correct or not, especially if the vehicle is using an aftermarket headlamp assembly.
• The factory harness plug that the kit is being connected to is incorrect. Double-check to see if it is the one that plugged in directly into the rear of the stock halogen bulb.
• The pins or prongs of the kit’s wiring harness or relay (that go into the vehicle’s factory harness plug) need to be removed from their plugs and directly inserted into the factory harness plug.
• The pins or prongs of the kit’s wiring harness or relay (that go into the vehicle’s factory harness plug) need to be physically modified to fit.
• There may be splicing or hardwiring required to connect the kit to the vehicle’s headlamp electrical system.

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• The headlight fuse is blown. Double-check either by inspection or plugging in the halogen bulb to see if it lights up (if it does, the fuse is okay). Replace with a 15 amp fuse if needed.
• The polarity is incorrect. Make sure that the polarity setting is the same as the other side of the vehicle.
• There may be a malfunctioning part. To determine this, simply swap the ballast from the non-working side to the working side to see if the problem follows. Do the same for the bulb. Whichever part that the problem follows is the culprit.
• If even after swapping parts the problem persists on the same side, there is a voltage problem with the vehicle. Hook up a relay to bypass this problem.

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• Both headlight fuses are blown. Double-check either by inspection or plugging in the halogen bulbs to see if they light up (if they do, the fuses are okay). Replace with 15 amp fuses if needed.
• The polarity is incorrect. Change the polarity and try all different settings until the lights turn on appropriately.
• If the fuses are okay and all polarity settings have been attempted but the problem remains, then there may be malfunctioning part

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• There may be a malfunctioning part. To determine this, simply swap the ballast from the non-working side to the working side to see if the problem follows. Do the same for the bulb. Whichever part that the problem follows is the culprit.
• If even after swapping all parts the problem persists on the same side, there is a voltage problem with the vehicle. Hook up a relay to bypass this problem.

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• Turn off the daytime running lights and/or auto-light on feature to prevent those features from affecting the operation of HIDs.
• A relay may be needed for specific vehicles to help regulate power for the kit so that the lights will stay on consistently.
• A pair of CANbus decoders may be needed for specific vehicles to help store power for the kit so that the lights will stay on consistently.
• If the CANbus decoders and/or relay fail to resolve this problem, there may be malfunctioning parts.

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Several reasons might cause this problem:

• The polarity setting might be changed until the low and high beams can turn on properly.
• If this is a Hi/Lo kit and all polarity settings have been attempted but the low beams still don’t turn on, then the vehicle has a double ground. A relay will be required to power the low beams.
• If this is a kit with a relay and all polarity settings have been attempted but either the low or high beams don’t turn on, then it is possible that there are malfunctioning parts.

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Would you please check the size of the fuse you are currently use? If it is 10AMP, we recommend you upgrade it to 15AMP. If the fuse is already 15AMP, please double check the wiring, make sure there is no short anywhere.

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No, it is not recommended to so. Since most vehicle’s daytime running lights operate at roughly 6v and since HID lights require a at least 9V to start, therefore the HID bulbs will not operate correctly (will flicker and turn off).

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Because for 2000-2008 Toyota Corolla and also 2003-2008 Toyota Matrix and 2003-2010 Pontiac Vibe, the low beam is functioning as DRL during the daytime. Therefore the voltage is 6V during daytime have caused this problem. You can check for Toyota Corolla DRL Fix for HID.

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Yes, but for most newer European cars, you will need to get extra CANbus Decoder to bypass the on board computer check and eliminate the error warning on the dashboard. You can add this CANbus decoders as an option together with your HID conversion kit purchase.

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Please make sure your vehicle's fog lamps are not made with plastic, then you should have no problem putting the HID conversion kit for your fog lamps. Also please keep in mind that for European cars, you might need to purchase additional CANbus Decoder to bypass any error or flickering.

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Bi-Xenon stands for a dual beam HID light, meaning that it works as both your low beams and high beams while driving at night. The high beam function is activated when the vehicle’s high beam solenoid is activated which actuates the spring inside the bulb which tilts the bulb upward or downward to aim the direction of the light upwards.

For vehicles with OEM HID systems, the headlight is responsible for the high beam/low beam function. Instead of using the actual bulb to aim the light upwards, the housing position changes instead. The common bi-xenon applications are H4 (9003), H13 (9008), 9004 and 9007.

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No, touching the HID bulb with your fingers is highly not recommended. The oil on your fingers will create hot spots on the bulb when it is lit up and cause the bulb to prematurely wear out. Since our warranty only covers manufacturer defects, this type of damage will not be covered.

Please wear gloves when installing HID bulbs. If you leave finger prints on the bulb, clean the bulb thoroughly with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol).

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A relay is used to simply pull power from your battery directly. The HID relay harness will accomplish two advantages. One advantage is to bypass the issue of problems that may occur between your E.C.U and your headlights. Another advantage is to have more consistent power to the HID kit since the power is coming directly from the power source.

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The CANbus Decoder have resistor and capacitors to simulate a factory Halogen Bulb. This will solve the error message on the dash board of newer luxury cars. CANbus decoders will also eliminate HID headlight FLICKERING that is caused by the Vehicle's computer not recognizing the HID bulb. This HID Conversion Kit Computer Warning Canceller will solve the computer error warning encountered during the installation of the HID kits. Power from the vehicle factory headlight plugs into this harness and this harness powers your HID Ballast. CANbus decoders will work for all CARS WITH COMPUTER CONTROLLED HEADLIGHTS. Although recommended for every car, Cancellers are most commonly needed for European cars such as Audi BMW or Mercedes, and some American cars such as Chrysler, Dodge or Jeep, etc

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You can find all the HID installation guide here.

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